Semuc Champey is a nice little park outside of Coban on the Guatemalan Gringo trail. Travelers usually hit Semuc after seeing the Mayan ruins in Tikal when heading south, or, after Antigua when heading north. It was a fantastic change of pace from life in Nebaj. I got to the "bus stop" in Nebaj at 4:55am for only direct van to Coban at 5am. The van had left at 4:50am, so I waited until a bus for to Santa Cruz de Quiche passed and rode for an hour to El Tronque. The guy charged me the full 10 Quetzales, but I think I should have only been charged 5. I got lucky and caught a direct van to Coban at El Tronque. This was a four hour ride in a 14 seater van with 22 people in it, 20 inside and 2 on top. It cost 40 Quetzales
It was about 10am when I arrived in Coban, and I took a much needed walk to the station where the vans left for Lanquin. The bus was ready to leave, so I picked up some snacks, paid for 15 quetzal ticket, and got on. I was seated next to the only other gringos on the van, and we quickly got to talking. They were a Canadian couple traveling for 6 months. They were staying at a Guatemalan owned hostel in Semuc (most travelers stay in Lanquin, a 9km, 25 min ride from Semuc). I had planned at staying at a different place in Semuc, but decided it would be easier to just stay with them.
It was still early by the time we got to Semuc. After unloading our things we went to swim in the river just behind the hostel. We could cliff dive (7m) from a boulder in the river. It was a great break from the heat of day. I ate my meals at the hostel and went to bed early and quickly despite the giant wolf spider in my room.
The next day I took the tour to Semuc. It cost the same as going by myself, and you get to do a little more if you go with a guide. We hiked up to the lookout then down to the water where the rocks make 5 pools from the crystal clear water. I even got the nerve up to make the 13m jump into the fifth pool! The Canadian couple has a waterproof camera, so there's proof!
There are also caves in Semuc, but I decided to forgoe the caves to rest up and take a trip into Lanquin where my cell phone would have service. I talked to some friends who would be in Antigua and got the address of their hostel. The next morning I left on a direct bus from Lanquin to Antigua. It's a 7 hr ride direct ride that can be done for 100 Quetzales by taking traditional transport and more time. I sprung the 130 Quetzales for the direct van.
Antigua was complete reverse culture shock. I felt like I was back in America. The bars had nice pool tables and flat panel televisions showing American sports games. The girls were dressed in the latest fashions whether American, Spanish, or Guatemalan. Everyone spoke good Spanish, and often English. On Saturday, I sat at a bar drinking coffee watching Iowa defeat Indiana 42-24 to maintain their perfect season.
At 2pm I headed out to Pakaya, a volcano an hour outside of Antigua. The transport and guide was 40 Quetzales, and the entry to the park is another 40Q. There were several hikers more than 50 years old on the hike, and the guide would not let us hike ahead. Eventually we made it to "3 rivers" where, surprisingly, 3 rivers of lava flow red hot. You're allowed to get as close as you want. Some people had brought marshmallows to roast. When the wind blows, the heat off the lava is incredible, but otherwise you feel the cool of 2500m altitude.
It was Halloween night, so I headed out to the bars and had a good 'ol time. The bars were no different than they were in Chicago last year except I spent the night talking to a Spanish girl who I first thought was Isreali.
I caught a ride back to Nebaj with my boss who had also been in Antigua. I missed the festival of the kites because he wanted to leave early, but I'm ok with that.
